The Stainless Steel Masses
Saturday, March 29, 2008
It is an unusual moment here in Argentina. There is no meat. In a country famous for beef, most markets are without. It would be like Japan without fish, or Italy without pasta. I recently wrote about a trip through the province of Entre Rios. Right now that province is in-passable. Farmers and their supporters have been blockading roads to prevent the transit of all goods to the markets.
At the same time, in the streets in Buenos Aires and other cities throughout the country there have been many seemingly-spontaneous rallies, called cacerolazos, named so because people leave their homes with casseroles/pots and pans, and bang on them to make noise. It is synonymous to a popular uprising, and I understand it was a common occurance during the economic crash of 2001 when things were truly bad here. Continue »
Back to the near present: Last Thursday we left for the province of Chaco, more than 1000 kilometers north of Buenos Aires. Though I have been living in Argentina for a few years now I had only driven a car once before here, and aside from adjusting to the given that stop signs here meaning nothing, it was not terribly difficult. I rented the car from a place in the neighborhood, a nearly new 
The holiday season is near in Buenos Aires so it’s getting hot. Makes for nice walks with my dog Clyde no matter what the hour. We pass through Parque Lezama near where I live a couple times a week. It is a big lush park, with Jacaranda and Ceibo trees now in bloom. There are several stray dogs there I know, and sometimes I think of grabbing one.
For example, there is this cute creature you see to the right. It’s this stray I see in the park all the time with Clyde. And there is another one named “Chicho” who is much more sizeable, a dark shepherdish mutt, and 100% amor. Sometimes Chicho follows us home and waits outside. The first time this happened I was concerned since I at the time lived on a very busy street. I phoned my friend Nacho, who knows Chicho, and assured me that he does the same with many dog owners, always making his way back to the park. For some reason all the dogs here, female and male, seem to love licking Clyde’s genitals. Not sure what it is. I love when it makes the owners uncomfortable that their macho dog is being “gay.”
I have been living in Argentina for three years now. I arrived a few days after that arrogant US president who invaded Iraq was reelected. It was embarrassing to be seen as a part of all that. (Fortunately there are intelligent people anywhere who see me for who I am, rather than as a generic representative of my government.) But at the same time, I could point out to any Yanqui-hater that Argentina has not so clean a history, with a recent military dictatorship which kidnapped and murdered 30,000 of its own citizens. Though the “
For the election, I was in El Bolsón, in the mountains of Patagonia. Nothing special for the election except it was raining that day so instead of hiking we went to a microbrewery there and couldn’t drink beer cause they don’t sell on election day. Guillermo, my boyfriend who is Argentine, went to the Police station there to get a certificate to prove he was more than 500 km from his voting place and was exempt from voting. Back in Buenos Aires he has to do one more errand here to get a stamp on his ID in place of his vote so he doesn’t have problems with the law in the future. 